Curb Skylight And Chinmney Flashing On a Flat Roof Using Rubber Roofing

Now that you've learned how to flash the roof edge with the help of our good friends and roofing contractors Tucson Roof Gurus, install base tie-ins in and inside corners, let's move on to curb flashing. Curbs greater than two feet by two feet are flashed with one continuous piece of EPDM membrane that is wrapped around the curve. We recommend using 60 mill. or reinforced EPDM membrane, which is stiffer and easier to work with than other EPDM membranes. Now let's look at the detailed procedure for flashing a curb.

First determine the proper size of the piece of membrane for the . The length of this piece must equal the total length of all four sides of the curb, plus four inches. The width of the piece must equal the desired flashing height, plus four inches. Be sure to add two more inches to the width if a batten strip on the horizontal is used for the based tie-in. Position the field membrane next to the curb and mark the corner locations.

Then cut an X between the marks. Pull the field membrane over the curb and fold back the four triangular areas. Then cut these triangular areas, so that four inches of the membrane extends up from the base of the curb. Place scraps of EPDM membrane or other suitable material under the four inches flaps. This will prevent bonding adhesive from contaminating the surfaces were later you will make a watertight splice.

Apply bonding adhesive to the exposed membrane and four inches up the side of the curb and allow it to flash off. Working from the adhesive side of the membrane, tuck the membrane into the angle change and work it up the wall. Install the batten strip into the curb, so that the fasteners are an inch and a half out of the break. Next, mark the piece of wall flashing for the application of bonding adhesive and quick prime.

Apply bonding adhesive to the appropriate area of wall flashing and to the sides of the curb. Keep in mind that if any bonding adhesive gets in the splice area, it could cause a leak, so it must be completely removed. Then, remove the protective sheets and mark the deck membrane three and a half inches from the base of the curb. Apply quick prime to the deck membrane, making sure to cover past the marks and to the area of the wall flashing that you marked.

Also, apply general purpose sealing to fasten the heads. After the bonding adhesive and the quick prime have flashed off, install quick seam splice tape one half inch past the corner of the curb and to the marks. Compress the tape with a dry quick scrubber pad and handle. Cut the quick seam splice tape one half inch past the other corner. Fold the quick prime portion of the wash flashing back and set the flashing in the center of one side of the curb.

Using the top of the curb as a reference point, wrap the flashing around the entire curb. Roll to the angle change and cut the curb flashing at the corners. Do not yet remove the release paper. Instead, set all four sides. On the deck, round all the corners and trim any excess membrane to expose one half inch of release paper. Remove the release paper and press the membrane into the quick seam splice tape.

To complete the vertical tape splices, fold the membrane back and apply quick prime to the splice area. Test the quick prime at the overlap. When it is ready, install a strip of quick seam splice tape. Flap the membrane. Remove the release paper and make the splice. Roll on quick seam splice areas with the silicone roller in both directions. Complete the vertical seam by installing a T join cover and a vertical joint patch.

Fixing a Gas Oven That Doesn’t Heat Up

What we are going to be doing here in today’s appliance repair (courtesy of is testing an igniter on a gas stove. The reason we’re testing this igniter is the oven doesn’t heat up and other symptom you might have is your food is taking too long to cook; your oven does not reaching proper temperature. This one is here is a GE range, you might have a different brand but the only difference with any of the glow bar style igniters is the airflow on the igniter, the location, how many you have, what they look like, but the testing procedure is going to be the same. And we’ll be using the clamp meter to do the testing and the reason we are not using an ohm meter is the ohm meter has only going to tell us if there is a break in it, it’s not going to actually tell us if it’s working properly.

And this is a clamp meter here, and it’s very important that you only clamp this on one of the igniter wires if you clamp it on more than one, two, you’re not going to get a reading at all. And this you can pick up at Sear’s or RadioShack, very inexpensive about 20 bucks. Come on down and we’ll take a look at this here and on ours the igniter, we’re actually we could get through to the oven door and pull on the bottom pin off but what we’re more interested in is getting the igniter wires.

They’ll going to be down here on this part and pull this off. And you may have a kick plate down here with the couple of screws that you need to remove to pull the cover up, your igniter maybe in a different spot, maybe in the front with sealed wires, coming down, we’ll talk about the wires in a minute here, and so it could be on a different location, so we’ll take a close.

Okay, this is our igniter here and it’s attached to the burner tube, this is where your gas comes out your flame and more importantly what we’re looking for is the igniter wires which are here. This can be identified by the flame retardant material that’s on it. it’s like a cloth and they are usually white also. Another thing is one of the wires is usually leading down to the gas valve.

The gas valve is going to be behind this cover and I know that because the gas flame coming in here leads to the gas valve. So remove that cover and I have already taken out the screw and this is the gas valve here also called the safety valve. And on the bottom of it, it has a reading and you can’t see it on the video but it says “3.3 to 3.6 amps.”

So the way this works is; the gas comes in, comes into the valve, you turn on your oven, power comes down, turns on this, when this reaches a certain amp draw, sends power down to the gas valve which starts to open up when it reaches that amp draw to let the gas come in, comes in to the burner tube, hits the glowing igniter, ignites, sending up flame., the igniter stays glowing which keeps the valve open. If this doesn’t quite reach the proper amp draw, it may open part way letting some gas come in a small flame, you may say or no light at all, like in this case here.

So what we’re going to do is clamp our clamp meter on there, I’m setting up the proper setting here, we’re putting at 20 amps on pretty high enough here and we’ll clamp it on one of the igniter wires and now we’ll be up, we’ll turn the oven on and we’ll watch that climb up and I know, since I’ve already tested this is going to get up to about 3 amps and stall, so we’ll shut it off the air for the now.

And you see its start to glow and It just sits here at about 3 amps and it starts to fall off after a few minutes. And there you can see it stalled out there and it had just started to glow so this here, since it sitting there we’re adding up to an hour and I know that it’s not going to open up that safety valve, we’re going to need to replace it. And a common misconception is people think that it’s the gas valve because is not letting the gas in but really it’s the igniter that signaling the gas valve to open up so we’re replacing it.

Fixing a Washing Machine That Won’t Start

Today’s modern appliances do so much of our daily grind work that we often don’t even realize how much we depend on them until they break down. But when they DO break down, knowing who to call for an appliance repair ( that you can count on can make the difference between some serious chaos and a simple, temporary hiccup in your daily chores. Today we’ll be looking at a common appliance problem – a washing machine that won’t start in any cycle.

The tools you need to complete this appliance repair are a pair of needle nosed pliers, a hand-held Phillips head screwdriver or a Phillips head bit incorporated with your drill.

This is a , it’s fairly new. It’s a lot smaller than most front load washers as you can tell. The problem we’re having with this one is it actually will not go to a cycle and what we’re noticing is that the door lock in the drain draining unlocking LED lights here are blinking and won’t lock the door and won’t go through a cycle.

It seemed to be intermittent issue, we did get it to go through once or twice but for the most part it was not starting. It would just blink continuously and not start.

We also raised the switch here; it’s a micro switch that sticks. So we’re going to be replacing the switch here and also the latch and this should rectify the problem that we are having

This is what the problem is with the lights that we got to going on over just a normal cycle. It does this on all cycles but we’re just going to do normal here. Let’s set the cycle, press and hold, what happened is this LED lights coming o, the door sounds like it locks but it’s just not registering it to the CCU that it’s actually locking.

So we get is this door lock like here just continuously blink and  blink and blink, then after the door lock continues to blink, the wash light will start to blink also and the last time I’ll share a set and waited for a good 15 minutes and it just kept on the same exact thing.

So in order to rectify this problem, what we have to do is replace this door switch and door lock here and we’re going to go on. To cancel this out, all you going to have to do is just hold the cancel and drain. It will run the drain pump for about 60 to 90 seconds then it’ll take about an additional thirty seconds for the door to actually unlock, but it will unlock by itself.

Never force the door open. The new switch should be nice and fluid, open-close, open-close and that’s sticking all. This old one sticks out, stays in for a while, it’s definitely should not be running like that. So we’re going to replace this and the door latch also.


Before beginning any repair always be sure to disconnect the power to the appliance. It is also recommended to test the outlet for proper voltage. Remember to also turn off the water.

Well we’re going to have to do first is there is a retaining spring that holds this gray bellow on and then you’re going to have to remove the spring and then fold the bellow back. Basically the latch and the switch are both held on by two Phillip head screws on each not too difficult over a pair.

This retaining spring can be a little tricky sometimes, the best way to get it off is to use a pair of needle nose pliers and if you look under it there will be a nice place to grab it. Get it on there nice and tight, pull out and use your other hand, you can follow completely of where you want to grab is one of these loops here and the best place to grab and pull out.

Now if you do this repair in your washer and you’ve been using it for some time, you will notice that you may have rust on these returning springs, sometimes you pull them off, they do break and if it’s older and there is rust on it, well kind of difficult to get off.

If it bends out, it breaks, you will have to replace that spring and you want that tension to be very tight around this you can run and some leaking issues so you don’t want to just rig it up back on there, you would want to replace the actual tensed spring if it does in fact break.

Now after removing the retaining spring we’re going to fold back the bellow here, does get a little stuck on there which is a good thing. So we’re going to fold this back about halfway. You can do the whole thing; it will make things easier on you.

Fold the back inside of the drum up and get it out of the way. Okay so we’re going to remove these two Phillip heads screws first and get the door switch out, just two standard Philip head screws, just hold them on.

Now there’s going to be one harness going to the door switch with the blue, two blue wires going to it simply just pull it off and it should be fine hanging right there and discard your old switch. The new switch will go in just like the old one came out.

The first thing you will want to do is put the harness on first then the screws. Slide it in the same way it came out. Grab your two screws; make sure not to over tighten these screws you don’t know want to strip out the plastic or it will just hang in not going there correctly.

Now this one is now a lot smoother than the old one. After replacing the switch, we’re going to replace the door latch here same way as a switch. First thing you need to do is remove the two Phillip head screws, this one also has one harness going to it. There will be one little clamp, take it right off, grab the new one.

Just want to slide it right back into the same spot, make sure it is nice and tight in there. Slide the latch back. Alright make sure it’s in there nice and flush against the actual cabinet. We have our Phillips so again do not over tighten. You do not want to strip that out or the door latch will have to be replaced again.

Alright, now that those are in there securely, both are good, nice and flush against the cabinet, what you have to do is basically just backtrack and replace the bellow, make sure that’s nice and secure around the actual base of the washer. I am going to have to fold it up and around so it’s nice and tight.

Putting on the retaining spring on this washing machine can be a little difficult at times; we always do want to make sure the spring is at the bottom of the gasket here. You will need to use the same pliers, you will notice that you used before and everybody has their own techniques. This is what I find most effective.

It’s basically just pulling it back and getting the right tension on it to go around this bellow, the newer the retaining spring, the more resistance you going to have. If we just push over, getting it around that the gasket. Make sure it’s pushed completely over the sides here and not showing and it’s not folded out anywhere.

It should be able to pull a bit on the bellow here and make sure that it’s not pulling the spring out. It is a little, it can be a little tricky sometimes, just practice makes perfect on it. So after we replace that retaining spring the repair is complete and now just run a test on your washer to make sure it’s functioning properly and we’re set to go.

Mini Renovation of an Enclosed Porch

mini porch makeover 2For this mini makeover we found a porch that was in need of attention. This space was turned into a bit of dumping ground for the homeowner’s two young boys. It was filled with their toys, their sports equipment, it was kind of neglected. But the homeowner really wanted to reclaim the space for herself. The show of the room really needed an update, it was dark for a sun room, very dark dated, the color needed an update.

We’ve chose three beauty tone colors for this room. We have silver birches on the back wall, we have porcelain as a perfect crisp white for the rest of the room and for the trim on the windows we’ve chose a semi-gloss black called Opening Night. Painting up this floor had a big impact in this space. We’ve chose a floor and porch paint in a high gloss which created the perfect white canvas.

mini porch makeover 4Now, I know what you’re thinking, this is a high traffic porch and white floors might not be the best idea, but this paint is very durable and the high gloss makes it very easy to clean. We separated the space into two zones. The first one is a mudroom and required a bit of storage, so we brought in two vary inexpensive benches from Home Hardware where the kids can sit, take off their boots and store some of their toys.

These benches come with the backing, but we decided to keep it off to see the brick. The second zone is all about mom, so we brought in an outdoor love seat and chair from Home Hardware, which offers that kind of cottage vibe that the homeowner really wanted. Bringing patio furniture into a room like this that receives s much direct sun light is a good idea because you won’t be dealing with any of the upholstery fading and it really withstand those changes in temperature.

To give it more of a living room look, we changed out the back cushions and put on our own. The homeowner loves yellow and have painted this stool, which kind of gave us a jumping off point for all the accessories we brought into this room. To me is not just a sun room without some greenery. So we brought in two very large plants that really finished the room. I think this makeover is really successful and we’ve officially reclaim the space and actually we are not leaving.